Nevada Pisco & Yanapaccha – June 15th – 20th, 2016
“Try? There is no Try. There is only do.” – Yoda
Why These Mountains?
TJ chose these mountains because they are popular beginner and acclimatization mountains for mountaineering . They are located in the Cordillera Blanca range of the Andes Mountains in Peru. She is excited about these mountains because not only are they stunningly beautiful they will allow her to put her newly learned mountaineering skills to the test and gain critical experience for larger and more technical terrain .
TJ became fascinated with the Andes Mountains after reading the book Miracle in the Andes and has wanted to visit these mountains for many years. TJ made her first visit there in 2015 and was unable to attempt Nevado Pisco. This will be her first attempt of this mountain.
Mountain & Route Facts
Pisco is a mountain in Peru, located in the Cordillera Blanca about 60 km north of Huaraz. It was first climbed on July 12, 1951 by C. Kogan, G. Kogan, R.Leininger and M. Lenoir. Previously, this mountain was popular for its easy climb. However, the primary climbing route has melted significantly. As a result, this mountain is no longer the easy climb it once was and depending on the season Pisco has a large ice wall with a 50-60 metre climb up a 60 degree slope. It is now rated as PD on the French Alpine scale. It is predicted that this mountain will get more difficult as the glacier continues to recede. Climbing involves mostly walking on snow slopes up to 35 degrees, but there is one section of about 100m of steep ice. Views from the mountain are superb, encompassing many of the other well known mountains of the Cordillera Blanca, such as Huascarán, Chopicalqui, Artesonraju, and Alpamayo. The altitude makes the climb very difficult for anyone not well acclimatised or fit, and even those who are will be slowed down. Sleeping at the two high camps is also difficult. Possible sleeping in the third camp on the ice requires proper equipment.
Yanaphaqcha (Quechua translation means “black waterfall”) is a mountain in the Cordillera Blanca in the Andes of Peru, about 5,460 metres (17,913 ft) high. . Yanapaccha is situated in the Llanganuco Valley adjacent to Pisco, but is much less well known and less frequented by climbers. It is a moderately difficult climb with some steep sections & crevasse negotiation and is not suitable for first time climbers, but an ideal peak for experienced climbers or novice climbers who have received instruction and are looking to extend their climbing level.
The Cordillera Blanca (Spanish for “white range”) is a mountain range in Peru which is part of the larger Andes range. The Cordillera Blanca lies entirely inside the region of Ancash, and runs parallel to the Santa River valley (also called Callejón de Huaylas on its upper and mid-sections) on the west. Huascarán National Park, established in 1975, encompasses almost the entire range of the Cordillera Blanca.
The Cordillera Blanca is the most extensive tropical ice covered mountain range in the world and has the major ice concentration in Peru. A total of 722 individual glaciers are recognized in this mountain range, and these cover an area of 723.4 km. Most of the glaciers, 91 percent of the total, are classified as mountain glaciers (they are generally short and have extremely steep slopes); the rest are classified as valley glaciers, except for one ice cap.